Vitreous glass tile is one of the most popular forms of tesserae used in mosaic art. I personally love it because of its uniform size and shape. These are perfect for use on a tabletop and floor since they are all the same thickness. I don't recommend always using them whole. Try cutting some up to give a rough edge look to your piece. I cut these into strips or quarters or even triangles. Mix it up a little to add texture to your piece.
So what is vitreous glass tile? The definition of vitreous is basically that light can pass through but you can't see through it. Keep in mind that this is just an overall definition. Some vitreous tiles are completely opaque. This is usually true for the hot colors such as reds, oranges, and yellows. There are several new brands coming out that have completely solid colors in the blues, greens, grays, etc.
Most vitreous glass has a speckled surface which people love. It gives the tile a natural look that is appealing for most projects. I have found that most of my clients prefer this surface texture for their home installations over completely smooth tile. However, too much speckle is not always a good thing. A good rule of thumb is that the more speckles there are the lower quality the tile. I have seen some tiles that are completely spotted and they just shatter when I cut them. That is very frustrating! Then there are the completely smooth tiles. These tiles are gorgeous but some of these cut weird too. Sometimes they will separate in layers when cut. Always go back to the rule that glass has fracture points and will split where it wants occasionally.
Price doesn't mean good or bad quality. You will find which tiles you prefer and just stick with those. I love the MatrixColor and the Sq Palette. These are my personal favorite. I create all of my work in these two lines. However I do throw in a CartGlass vitreous tile occasionally to get the colors that I need. I have tried other lines of vitreous and have likes and dislikes of those as well. I won't go into those here though.
Vitreous glass tile comes in hundreds of colors. The palette it gives you is extensive and will help you create the perfect piece. Always be willing to try something new!
Thursday, August 30, 2007
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Getting A Straight Cut With Glass Tile
This can be very frustrating for some people. You need a precise cut on your glass tile and you just can't seem to get what you want. There are ways to cut glass tile to almost perfection. However, you must remember that glass is glass and it tends to have a mind of its own sometimes. If you get a piece that will not cut well, then put it aside and try a new one. Glass has fracture points and it will break along its own line occasionally. You just have to direct the cut.
I use wheeled cutters to cut all glass. Click here to see the basics of how to use wheeled cutters. Some people use the basic nippers but I have too many problems with them. To cut all the way across the glass tile in a straight line you need to cut quickly and efficiently. If you take too long to squeeze the cutters for a cut then you will end up crushing the tile. This crushed area will result in a poor cut that is curved. You can't give the glass time to find its fracture point. Place your wheels where you want the cut and pop the tile apart with speed. Don't let your cutters wobble either.
You still may have a ragged edge. This is normal and usually a desired effect. Most artists don't want a "perfect" edge. They want it to all look hand cut. To clean up a ragged edge just slowly start nipping the the rough area off. You can also use grozier pliers to pull of the unwanted part.
Practice really does make perfect on this. The more cuts you make on glass tile the better you will get. Remember that it will take a lot to dull your wheels. If they seem to be getting dull just rotate them slightly.
If you have your own technique that works, feel free to add a comment on it.
I use wheeled cutters to cut all glass. Click here to see the basics of how to use wheeled cutters. Some people use the basic nippers but I have too many problems with them. To cut all the way across the glass tile in a straight line you need to cut quickly and efficiently. If you take too long to squeeze the cutters for a cut then you will end up crushing the tile. This crushed area will result in a poor cut that is curved. You can't give the glass time to find its fracture point. Place your wheels where you want the cut and pop the tile apart with speed. Don't let your cutters wobble either.
You still may have a ragged edge. This is normal and usually a desired effect. Most artists don't want a "perfect" edge. They want it to all look hand cut. To clean up a ragged edge just slowly start nipping the the rough area off. You can also use grozier pliers to pull of the unwanted part.
Practice really does make perfect on this. The more cuts you make on glass tile the better you will get. Remember that it will take a lot to dull your wheels. If they seem to be getting dull just rotate them slightly.
If you have your own technique that works, feel free to add a comment on it.
Friday, August 24, 2007
Weldbond - The Good and The Bad
Ooohhh Weldbond! As a mosaic artist I love this magical glue. It is very easy to use, dries clear (eventually), and gets stronger as it dries. I tell my students that a "dab will do it" when using Weldbond so it is also inexpensive to use.
Weldbond can be used for most indoor projects. I don't recommend using it for hanging a kitchen backsplash or shower surround! You can use this wonderful adhesive on most surfaces. Try it on wood, metal, ceramic, and glass.
This adhesive is perfect for a sealant to be used before tiling your piece. Create a mixture of 1/5 of Weldbond and 4/5 of water. Brush on the entire surface of wood, concrete, and terra cotta. Allow to soak in and dry. This will help protect against added moisture that may seep onto the surface of your piece and damage the integrity of your mosaic.
I use Weldbond for the double direct on mesh method. I use it very sparingly to adhere my tiles to the mesh. Just don't use too much so that it completely covers your mesh holes. You need to leave some space for the thinset to seep up and touch your tiles.
The drawbacks are that it is a water soluble and doesn't set quickly. Do not use this adhesive outdoors!!!! I created a gorgeous bench using Weldbond. I then placed it outside under my covered back porch. Within 2 months the tiles began to just come off in sheets, held together only by grout. Don't allow your mosaic to be destroyed due to ignorance of your glue like I did!
If you decide to use this glue on glass be ready for your tesserae to slide for a little while. Weldbond doesn't set up quickly so your tiles will move easily until the glue has time to dry somewhat. One thing that helps this is to brush on a coating of Weldbond on your glass and allow to dry. Now use the Weldbond to adhere the tile as you normally would.
Keep in mind that Weldbond needs oxygen to set up. Once the tiles are squished onto the surface, it is harder for air to get underneath the tiles. It will take a little longer for the glue to become clear but it will eventually. If using transparent tiles, be sure to cover the entire back of the tile with glue (thin layer) so you will not see the glue once it does completely dry.
That is all for today. I hope this helps you understand the power of Weldbond. Please let me know if I have left anything out by leaving me a comment! Here is a link to purchase Weldbond.
Weldbond can be used for most indoor projects. I don't recommend using it for hanging a kitchen backsplash or shower surround! You can use this wonderful adhesive on most surfaces. Try it on wood, metal, ceramic, and glass.
This adhesive is perfect for a sealant to be used before tiling your piece. Create a mixture of 1/5 of Weldbond and 4/5 of water. Brush on the entire surface of wood, concrete, and terra cotta. Allow to soak in and dry. This will help protect against added moisture that may seep onto the surface of your piece and damage the integrity of your mosaic.
I use Weldbond for the double direct on mesh method. I use it very sparingly to adhere my tiles to the mesh. Just don't use too much so that it completely covers your mesh holes. You need to leave some space for the thinset to seep up and touch your tiles.
The drawbacks are that it is a water soluble and doesn't set quickly. Do not use this adhesive outdoors!!!! I created a gorgeous bench using Weldbond. I then placed it outside under my covered back porch. Within 2 months the tiles began to just come off in sheets, held together only by grout. Don't allow your mosaic to be destroyed due to ignorance of your glue like I did!
If you decide to use this glue on glass be ready for your tesserae to slide for a little while. Weldbond doesn't set up quickly so your tiles will move easily until the glue has time to dry somewhat. One thing that helps this is to brush on a coating of Weldbond on your glass and allow to dry. Now use the Weldbond to adhere the tile as you normally would.
Keep in mind that Weldbond needs oxygen to set up. Once the tiles are squished onto the surface, it is harder for air to get underneath the tiles. It will take a little longer for the glue to become clear but it will eventually. If using transparent tiles, be sure to cover the entire back of the tile with glue (thin layer) so you will not see the glue once it does completely dry.
That is all for today. I hope this helps you understand the power of Weldbond. Please let me know if I have left anything out by leaving me a comment! Here is a link to purchase Weldbond.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Introduction
My name is Tammy and I am the owner of Tile Shack Mosaic Supplies (www.tileshack.com). I have been in business for almost 5 years. During this 5 years I have taught many people how to create gorgeous mosaic art.
I have been creating my own mosaics for about 9 years. I have written a couple of articles for GlassCraftsman magazine. I have been in several newspaper articles. I was even asked to create a commission piece for the Maxwell House Hotel in Nashville, TN. It was the sheet music to Hey Good Lookin'.
Over this time period, I have picked up tons of techniques and tips. Some of these work well for one person but may not work for someone else. You always have to be prepared to try something different until you find what works for you.
For instance, a good friend of mine, Cary Huff, creates the most amazing vases. She uses stained glass, vitreous tiles, broken china, glass gems, and other assorted things. She also loves using Liquid Nails for her adhesive. I don't care for making vases or using Liquid Nails. I prefer nice flat surfaces such as wall hangings or table tops. I hate using Liquid Nails as I can never get it to work properly without making a huge mess.
Just learn to adapt when something is not working and always be willing to try a variety of techniques. Creating mosaic art is not rocket science but does take some time and thought.
That is it for now. I will return every few days and post a great tip or technique that you will hopefully try. Feel free to post a response if you disagree or agree with what I am saying. I am, by far, not an expert just have a ton of experience!
I have been creating my own mosaics for about 9 years. I have written a couple of articles for GlassCraftsman magazine. I have been in several newspaper articles. I was even asked to create a commission piece for the Maxwell House Hotel in Nashville, TN. It was the sheet music to Hey Good Lookin'.
Over this time period, I have picked up tons of techniques and tips. Some of these work well for one person but may not work for someone else. You always have to be prepared to try something different until you find what works for you.
For instance, a good friend of mine, Cary Huff, creates the most amazing vases. She uses stained glass, vitreous tiles, broken china, glass gems, and other assorted things. She also loves using Liquid Nails for her adhesive. I don't care for making vases or using Liquid Nails. I prefer nice flat surfaces such as wall hangings or table tops. I hate using Liquid Nails as I can never get it to work properly without making a huge mess.
Just learn to adapt when something is not working and always be willing to try a variety of techniques. Creating mosaic art is not rocket science but does take some time and thought.
That is it for now. I will return every few days and post a great tip or technique that you will hopefully try. Feel free to post a response if you disagree or agree with what I am saying. I am, by far, not an expert just have a ton of experience!
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