Mosaic a Different Shape

Now that Wedi board is readily available, take a leap and mosaic something wild. If your normal substrate is a square, cut out a circle instead. If you normally use a circle then cut out a wavy rectangle. The shape of your substrate can completely change the look of your finished piece. The piece shown is done on Wedi.

Once I found Wedi I realized that I could cut out circles very easily. To get a large circle, tie a string that is the length of your radius (distance from the center of the circle to the outer edge) to a thumbtack and then tie the other end to a pen, marker, or pencil. Stick the tack in the center of your board and drag the pen around to form a circle. This is the same process as using a compass but allows you to draw a large circle.

After you get your circle drawn on the Wedi then take your utility knife and cut it out. There will be rough edges unless you are perfect at cutting. If so, just scrape them off to even out the edge.

If you want to do a wavy rectangle just draw your pattern before cutting it out. You have the freedom to make it look like whatever your fancy is at the time. As I always say...try something different whether it be a new tesserae or a new substrate or even just a new shape!

Wedi Board

As you probably know, we are carrying Wedi board again. This is my all time favorite substrate to use. It is the easiest to use. If you have never used it before then read my Wedi review below.

Wediboard is a lightweight substrate that you can literally cut with a utility knife. It has a styrofoam center covered in a layer of mesh and then a layer of cement. Even though it is so lightweight, it will hold a lot of weight. This includes the weight of glass mosaic tiles! My favorite thing to mosaic is a round shape. This is very difficult to achieve with a wood base. But with Wedi, I can cut whatever size circle I want with my utility knife. I don't have to ask my hubby to cut my surfaces anymore!

Wedi board comes in two thicknesses, 1/2" and 1/4". While the 1/4" is perfect for some projects, I think hanging 1/2" is so much easier. This is because I found this cool hanging nail thingy at Lowe's that makes it a snap. All you do is hammer the sharp end into the wall where you want your finished piece to hang. Then take your mosaic and press it onto the blunt end of the nail thingy. That is it! I have a piece in my showroom that is about 2 1/2 feet in diameter that is hanging this way with no problems. As long as you get the right size, it won't poke through to your surface and pop your tiles off. Please remember that you can't do this with 1/4". It is too thin.

The other issue people have is with how to finish the edges of Wedi. When you cut it there will be exposed edges that show the blue styrofoam. I have done several things to cover it. The best way for me is to simply rub my grout along the edge. It covers the edges and keeps consistency with the grout color of the mosaic itself. I have also used the copper foil from stained glass stores and the aluminum tape from Lowes for duct work. It all works well for me I just prefer the look of the grouted edge.

I have heard people say that Wedi cannot be used outdoors. However on the Wedi website it shows that they use this stuff to create showers and such. I imagine it would be fine as long as you prep it well by covering all of your exposed edges with thinset.

There will be more to come on the subject of Wedi...

Is a latex additive necessary?

Yes and No

Latex additive is a liquid that you would add to your thinset mortar instead of water when mixing. It makes the thinset more flexible once it dries and makes it very sticky. So why would you need this stuff?

Glass tiles are nonporous. This is what makes them great for use outdoors. You don't have to worry about water absorption and then freezing issues. However since they are nonporous it is a little bit harder for the thinset to grab and hold these tiles. The latex creates an amazing bond between the glass and the thinset that will make you feel safe that your tiles are going to stay on.

Obviously if you are using any other adhesive the latex additive is not necessary. Or if you are using ceramic or porcelain there is really no need for it. But it doesn't hurt to use it since it does add the flexibility of the thinset.

New Stuff

It is that time of year when we say out with the old and in with the new! This means that we are discontinuing some items while getting some new things in stock. New stuff is always a lot of fun around Tile Shack. It is like Christmas everytime a new shipment comes into the warehouse!

So what is new for 2008? We have 15 new colors of AfterGlow Series. The pics on the website are actually pretty horrible right now. This tile is difficult to photograph. The shipment is due in this week so we will get better pics then. Basically there are a lot of the softer colors needed to round out this tile line. There is a soft yellow, bright white, mauves, and many pastel shades.

We also are now carrying Wediboard in the form of Wedi Packs. Wedi gets destroyed when shipped by the full sheet so we found a company that will be drop shipping this for us in precut sizes. We will have a few packs in stock at our showroom too. Those are due to arrive this week too.

If you love iridescent tile then you are going to love the Luster Series. It is everything that the Fantastix is not. These colors are pastels with a smooth iridescence to them. They are also 3/4" so they can be incorporated with all of the other 3/4" tiles that we have.

We are now selling our Mapei grout and thin set in 5 pound resealable buckets. This keeps you from having to buy it in 25 pound bags only to have it go bad on you. I have had so many people tell me that they want to use the latex additive in their thinset but don't want to buy that huge jug at the home stores. So along with the grout and thinset we are also selling grout sealer and latex additive in smaller sizes.

We have several other new items that will be on their way from overseas soon. We will announce those when they get a little closer.

Now what are we getting rid of??? It is not by choice but the Sq Palette is being discontinued by our supplier :(. We love this tile and still have a bunch in stock. Just remember to buy all that you need for your project at once. As we run out of colors we will just remove them from our site.

The glass shapes and electric gems are not going to be restocked. If you need a large amount of the glass shapes let me know. I can make you a deal on these.

If there is anything we don't have that you would like us to carry, let me know. We are always looking for new and exciting products.

Electricity is back on!

We froze for most of the day but we now have power at the store. Orders flew out the door today and more will go tomorrow. We really appreciate your patience with this situation.

Oklahoma Ice Storm

We didn't think it would be this bad but Oklahoma got hit hard with an ice storm over the weekend. We chipped off over 1 inch of ice yesterday from our cars. It is weighing down trees and snapping power lines like crazy.

This storm has knocked out power to over 200,000 people. This includes Tile Shack's showroom! We are still packing out orders but it is taking a little longer than usual. Wandering around a warehouse in the dark is difficult! So please be patient with us.

If you have any questions, feel free to email us. I have power at home so I can check email often. I am also checking voice messages from home and can return your call easily.

They say the power won't be fully restored until next week. Let's just hope that happens a lot sooner!

Mosaic a Terra Cotta Pot

One of the most popular applications of mosaic tile is on a terra cotta pot. These finished pieces make great gifts and look terrific no matter what you put on them. Creating a mosaic pot is a little different than doing a piece that will hang on a wall but is usually what a first time mosaic artist to be wants to do.

Prepping your pot is extremely important. You have to seal it on the inside, outside, bottom, and top. This is very important since terra cotta is very water absorbent. Use a mixture of 1 part Weldbond and 5 parts water. Brush this on every surface of the pot and allow to dry. After the sealer has dried then you can draw your design directly onto the pot with a pencil.

Using the proper adhesive is important too. I always recommend using Liquid Nails for Small Projects (not the clear stuff). This adhesive is very tacky so you don’t have to deal with your tiles sliding down your pot while you work. It is also great for a piece that will sit outdoors as it is not water soluble.

Choosing glass tiles is the safest tesserae since these can be set outside without any worries of freezing temperatures. They are also small enough to go around your pot smoothly. You will still probably need to cut these down with the wheeled cutters so they lay flat. I usually lay the pot on a towel in my lap to work on the sides. It makes it easier to see the design.

You are going to grout as you normally would. It is sometimes easier to turn the pot upside down and grout from the bottom up. This is especially true with angled sides of a terra cotta pot. After the grout has cured for at least 48 hours, seal it well. Your beautiful pot is ready to set out on your patio for years and years.

Project Idea #4 - Christmas Ornament Mosaic

Christmas ornaments make great Christmas presents especially when they are handmade. Mosaic ornaments are beautiful when done with glass tiles. They reflect light and really twinkle.

Materials Needed:

1 plastic ornament

Glass tiles

Wheeled Cutters

Liquid Nails or silicone adhesive

Grout kit

The plastic ornament can be found at various dollar stores. They are usually covered in a ribbon like material. This can be pulled off easily.

You can choose to use MatrixColor Q-Tiles or any other tiles. If you use larger tiles they will have to be cut down to smaller sizes to fit around the curves of the ornament.

The adhesive you use depends a lot on the tiles. If the tiles you use are translucent then use silicone. If they are completely opaque then use Liquid Nails. Don't use too much so you don't have glue squishing up around your tiles.

Attach the tiles in whatever design you choose. You will find it easiest to lay the ornament on a towel so it won't roll while working. You will probably have to attach one side of tiles and let these set up before turning the ornament over to do the other side. Always check back to make sure your first tiles didn't slide down.

After the glue has completely set, you will grout as normal. You will need to clean off the hanger part well when clearing the grout. Use q tips or something similar to get it out of the grooves.

These ornaments are heavy but still hang on a tree nicely with no worries of falling off. Whoever receives this as a gift will love and cherish it forever.

Picking Your Pattern

Deciding upon the right design or pattern for your mosaic can be a difficult task. Too much detail and the effect can be lost in a mosaic. Too simple and you may end up with a big blob on your surface.

It can be very overwhelming if you don't know what you want at all. Below you will find some places to look for design ideas.

1. Coloring book pages are wonderful. The designs are large and open so there isn't too much detail to worry about. These are especially good for holidays designs.
2. Look around you. Dishtowels, decorative bowls, paper towel designs, etc. Most household items have simple details that would be great for a mosaic.
3. Other crafts give loads of ideas. Cross stitch patterns, quilt designs, and embroidery pieces are great because they are simple.
4. Look to nature. Find a good National Geographic magazine and look for a close up of a butterfly, frog, or whatever else they are lucky to get a shot. The closeups usually are pretty simple without too much detail.
5. If you are into symmetry, then do an image search for tessellations. This is a mathematical design that repeats itself symmetrically using slides (translations), turns (rotations), and flips (reflections). These are usually pretty simple designs but they look intricate.

THE DON'TS OF FINDING DESIGNS!!!!!

This is a very important section. Please read it fully...

1. DON'T copy the artwork of another artist. This is copyright infringement and can get you into lots of trouble. If you see a painting that you really want to copy, then ask the artist for permission first. If they say no, then forget about it.

I hope these tips will help you in choosing the pattern that you are about to use on your mosaic. It really can mean the difference between a good end and a bad end result.

Limited Lots

Many of my clients love, love, love the Limited Lots section. I love it too! I am always looking for a bargain on mosaic tiles and such. This usually means there is only one or two of whatever I find. These get lumped into the Limited Lots section.

I recently bought most of a mosaic artist's goodies. She decided she wanted to move on to another artform and approached me about her stuff. When I went to her house I was amazed. She had some much I didn't know where to start.

So I bought a huge lot of it and will probably go back for more once this first buy is resold. So what did I get???

• Tons of stained glass 1/2" squares
• Box full of an off brand of vitreous tile
• Trays of fused cabachons some of which are dichroic and others are millefiori
• Larger squares of stained glass (about 4")
• Loads of unglazed porcelain tiles
• Grout galore
• Glues and surfaces
• Bags and bags of river rock and pebbles
• Glazed ceramic squares and other shapes
• Iridescent glass (pretty sure it is Sicis)
• Some beautiful metallic glass
• A few sheets of Van Gogh glass (I put this on Ebay because I didn't know how to price it)

There is probably more that I cannot think of right now. So if you are in the area, come by the store and I will be happy to let you dig through my cool new stuff. In the meantime, I will be putting as much of this stuff in the Limited Lots section as I can each day. If there is something you want to see now, let me know. I will just add it first!

Grouting Vitreous Glass

One of the most common complaints about using vitreous/venetian glass is the grouting. Vitreous tile has some pits, striations, and speckles. This is what makes it vitreous and usually gorgeous tile. However when you spread grout on top of the vitreous tile, then the grout tends to fill the pits and striations.

I, personally, love this look. I think it makes the piece look more natural and earthy. I do admit that sometimes I don't want that. Imagine if you are using white tiles but grouting in black. The white tiles will pretty much lose their white color.

So what can you do? There are a couple of options. This first method is the easiest for me. After you get the grout cleaned off of your piece take a stiff toothbrush and go over each tile to brush out the grout. You have to do this while the grout is still very fresh. Once it has a chance to dry, you will not get it out of the pits. It seems tedious but goes quickly since it is just a light brushing.

The second option is to use a Weldbond mask on the tiles before grouting. Brush full strength Weldbond onto each tile and allow to dry. Grout as normal and then pull off the Weldbond. It should just scrape right off. You can even add a little water to pesky spots since this is water soluble glue. This method has far too many steps for me but is widely used in the mosaic community.

I am sure there are other methods that I am not aware of but these are a starting point. Using vitreous glass gives you a tremendous color palette that is a must to your mosaic work. Don't let the pits and striations steer you away from this amazing tile.

Add some texture to your piece!

Adding texture to your piece can really add the punch needed to get the oohs and aahs from people. You can add this by using a couple of techniques.

A friend of mine named Cary Huff creates some of the most unique vases that I have ever seen. In the one shown, she uses all of the techniques that I mention below.

1. Use really shiny glass tiles for the foreground image then use matte tiles for the background (or vise versa). If you prefer the vitreous glass like I do, then use Sq Palette for the foreground image and then the MatrixColor Venetian for the background. Your image will basically jump out at the viewer.


2. You could go really dramatic by using a solid crystal glass such as The AfterGlow Series for your main design and do the background with our Fantastix Iridescent tiles. Each type of tile is shiny just in different manners. You will really dazzle the viewer using this technique.


3. Adding texture can also be taken literally. There are some tiles that have texture on them such as many types of stained glass. If you like using stained glass then create your piece as normal. However mix in the same colored glass but use some that has the texture molded into it. Be careful not to overdo it in this case. The texture pieces used in the wrong place can ruin a piece. For instance, if you are doing a face then you may not want to use both texture and flat pieces for the cheeks but rather use the texture pieces for under the eyes or the lips.


4. The last way that I can think of for you to add some pep to your piece is to layer the tiles. Create your piece as you normally would. Once it is dry then glue some tiles or glass gems to the top of your tiles in various locations. After the glue sets up then grout around these addons to smooth out the transition. It creates a breathtaking piece when not overdone.

Always remember to do what is appealing to your own eye and I am sure it will look great when finished!

What can't you use to mosaic???

I get this question a lot when doing classes. People want to know what they can't use to mosaic. My answer is simple for what not to use as a base. Anything that flexes is NOT good. Imagine that your flexible flower pot is an ice tray and the tiles that you meticulously set on it are the ice cubes. Now twist the ice tray/flower pot. What do you see happening??? All of the tiles/ice cubes will just pop off. That is my only rule with bases.

So what do you not want to use as tesserae? My rule is simple again. If it is going to rot, then don't use it! I have had people use some different items as tesserae besides the usual glass, porcelain, and stone. I have seen cork, plastic beads, forks, plastic fruit, napkins, metal salt and pepper shakers, legos, and on and on and on.

My favorite site to point my students to is www.jellybelly.com. Here is the direct link to their art gallery. Here they make mosaics using jelly beans. It just shows what can be done with odd material as tesserae.

So in the end, you should always be willing to try something a little different. It doesn't have to be outlandish but every once in awhile, add something off the wall to your piece!

Project Idea #3 - Thanksgiving Day Trivet

Nothing would warm your hostess more than to receive this wonderful gift on Thanksgiving. A handmade Thanksgiving Day Trivet, will look great on the table while serving dinner.

These are easy to make. All you need are:

8" ceramic tile
carbon paper
Thanksgiving themed coloring sheet
pencil or pen
MatrixColor Venetian glass tiles
Weldbond
wheeled cutters
grouting kit (grout, gloves, paper towels, newspaper, plastic spoon, plastic bowl)

The coloring sheets can be printed off of many websites. Just make sure it is a large simple design. Some examples would be of a pumpkin, Indian corn, turkey, etc. Lay the carbon paper (carbon side down) on the top of the ceramic tile, then lay your coloring sheet on top of that. Trace the pattern onto the ceramic tile with your pen or pencil. When you finish, the carbon paper should have left the design on the top of your ceramic tile.

Now you just need to take your MatrixColor Venetian tiles and glue them onto the design in whatever fashion you want. Use your wheeled cutters to nip the tiles into smaller pieces to fit the design better. Use a dab of Weldbond on the back of each tile to adhere the glass to the ceramic.

Once you finish this, allow it to dry overnight. The next day, you can grout as usual. Be sure to seal the grout with a good grout sealant to protect against any spills that happen at the dinner table!

In Memory of Ben

If you have the time, be sure to check out our Featured Artist section. There are so many terrific artists that we show in this section of our site. They all create tremendous work.

Be sure to click on the link for Ben E. Tobin. Ben's motto was that he could mosaic anything that didn't move. And he could use anything to mosaic with. He created some of the most beautiful pieces on some of the strangest things.

Yesterday I learned that Ben passed away. My heart is very saddened by this news. Ben was a wonderful mosaic artist but an even better friend. He battled an illness for years and finally succombed to its clenches. He will be missed greatly by so many people.

We love you Ben! May your body finally get a chance to rest but let your spirit still inspire us all!

Mosaic Tile Sizes

The definition of mosaic tile is any tesserae that is 2" or smaller. Typically mosaic glass tiles are 2", 1", 3/4", 5/8", 3/8", and 1/2". 2" and 1" tiles are typically crystal glass, 3/4" are usually vitreous and metallic swirl, 5/8" are iridescent, 3/8" are vitreous glass or stained glass, and 1/2" are usually stained glass.

Many people wonder what they can do with such small tiles. For an artist, the possibilities are endless. I rarely use tiles whole. I usually cut them down in some way so I don't have such a symmetric piece or straight edge. I will cut them into fourths, halves, triangles, etc. This also means that an artist can integrate all sorts of tiles into one piece. By cutting them to smaller pieces, you can combine the iridescent with the vitreous or the stained glass with the metallic tiles.

There is another issue that the mosaic artist must face. Some tiles are thicker than others. This is fine if your piece is going on a wall but not okay if it is going on a floor or table top. You really have to have all tiles the same thickness or you will have a wobbly table top.

Most mosaic tiles are 4mm (vitreous, metallic, stained glass, iridescent, our AfterGlow tiles),5mm(some crystal glass), or 8mm(ceramic and crystal glass). Some stained glass is even thinner. If you are working in broken china then you have multiple thicknesses and multiple problems.

However, different tile sizes can offer you much diversity in a piece. Imagine the texture qualities that you will achieve by using the AfterGlow glass with MatrixColor Venetian glass. The smooth versus rough surface will make your crystal glass tiles pop out. Experiment with different tesserae when you can.

Just make sure that you are aware of your tile size and the desired outcome of your project before purchasing tiles. You will have a less frustrating experience this way.

Mosaic Logo Finished!

Well, my part is done at least. It still has to be installed and grouted. I have to say that this was one of the most enjoyable projects I have done. I just hope that the client likes it as much as me!

So to continue on with the steps to completion. Here is how I went about filling in the large starburst. I used whole tiles when I could. I really tried to not use many of the tiny pieces but had to do a lot of fill in because of the shape.

I had some design issues with the center of the large starburst. I had tiles coming in from all directions because of each point being tiled at different angles. I finally decided to just lay the tiles in the center going one direction. I angled it so it has a little more flow when looking at the logo straight on. I ended up with a slight curve to my tile lines that I had to fix and refix to get straight.

After getting all of the cracks filled in, I was ready for the background. I wanted it to be a basic squared off background. No frills so that the starburst would jump out. I chose to use Peacock in full sheets as much as possible. After adhering all of the full and partial sheets, I allowed these to dry overnight. I did this so that I wouldn't pull off the tiles when I soaked the paper off of the tiles.

The next day I used a wet sponge to get the paper off. I then started filling in around the large starburst. This was pretty easy but very time consuming. The edges of each tile are not perfect but I think grout will hide some of the blemishes.

After finishing the entire logo, I had to let it dry overnight. The last thing I had to do was cut this up into workable pieces and shake out all of the shards that were in the grout joints. I had a few tiles pop off so I glued those back on. I then flipped each piece over and pulled off the plastic wrap so that the glue could finish drying. This piece is now ready for delivery. I will post a pic of the installed logo later.

Creating Mosaic Logos

As many of you know, I don't take on many commission jobs. I am way too busy and never like the way my pieces turn out. I was approached by a company at the Tulsa House Beautiful show about doing a custom mosaic of their logo. It is to be 5 foot by 5 foot. I must have been feeling good that day because I told them "Sure, I can do this!"

After picking the 4 colors that would be used: French Violet, Peacock, Bubble, and P921, they gave me their business card that had the logo. My wonderful husband figured out how to blow up the image to the 5 foot by 5 foot size without losing too much of the design to pixels. I did go through and outline the large starburst so I could see it easier through the mesh. Now I am filling in the design by adhering the tiles to the mesh with Weldbond.

I laid out the design on cardboard boxes that I taped (and taped and taped) together. I then taped plastic wrap on the paper and then fiberglass mesh on the plastic. I taped all of this down well. Then I started to work.

I laid the central orbits first starting with the arrows. I tried to use as many whole tiles as possible since this will be placed on a floor. I did the blue first since it was the dominating shape.

Next I worked on the inner starburst. This was done in the French Violet using mostly half tiles cut into triangles. It gives it a nice texture that will be enhanced when the outer starburst is finished. The hardest part of doing this starburst was filling in the center. I was trying to not use anything smaller than a full half tile, so it was a difficult puzzle to complete. There are a couple of larger grout joints but I think it will look good when grouted.

Next it was time to do the letters...I had such a hard time with this. I was completely blocked for quite some time. My problem was that the letters are not a full tile wide. They are just under a full tile so I had to shave each tile off using the wheeled cutters. I was very worried because the tiles weren't perfectly smooth or perfectly straight. After seeing many other examples of mosaic letters and speaking with several people about it, I realized that this is how it has to be. The grout will actually smooth these out a lot.

So after working on these letters for what seems an eternity, I finally finished the lettering. I felt like I was carving each tile and I guess I was. I used my grozing pliers to smooth out the edges when I could.

The past couple of days I have been working on the outer starburst. Once again, I am trying to use more full tiles then not. With the angle of the points that was impossible though. So I lined the outside of each point with the full tiles and am filling in the gaps with odd shaped triangles (half pieces). Working around the letters has proved to be the most difficult so far. I am trying to fill in without making it look filled in. I am trying to achieve consistency between each point section. Today, I am going to try to finish as much of the inside as I can.

Project Idea #2 - Funky Picture Frame

We are offering a class this month on how to make a funky picture frame. It is always fun because we don't use typical tesserae. We use everything but the kitchen sink! These make the best gifts because you can personalize your's for the person you are creating it for.

Try using jewelry, buttons, scrapbooking decor, beads, and glass tiles. Here is a quick walk through on how to make a picture frame with pizazz.

Materials Needed:

1 Picture Frame (make sure it has wide framing of at least 2" on all sides)
Liquid Nails
Wheeled Cutters
Scissors
Glass Tiles
Assorted Trinkets
Grout
Gloves
Paper Towels
Toothpicks
Toothbrush

First of all don't spend a lot on a picture frame. We have a store here called Big Lots. They have amazing frames that are perfect for this project. I bought the one that I used for $2. They are sturdy and have the correct framing width. Before starting remove the glass and back of the frame.



Now start gluing the trinkets onto the frame using Liquid Nails. I say this adhesive because you can stand things up on end with little problems with this thick adhesive. For the one that I made, I used earrings and cut off the posts. I then stood them on end to give the ribbon effect. I then used the backs to make "flowers" in spots. After adding on your trinkets (the more the better!), fill in the empty spots with the glass tiles. I used the Aventurine Metallic color Henna on mine so I could keep the overall gold tone of the frame.

Using the Liquid Nails is great for this project but be careful not to use to much. Once this stuff gets on the tops of your pieces it is very difficult to get off even with acetone. Use enough to build a base for your funky pieces but use very little on your glass tiles since they don't require much to stay in place.

Now that you have covered the entire front of the frame, try adding a string of beads to the sides. Plastic ones work just fine. Let your frame set overnight to dry.

Mix your grout as you would for any other mosaic. While it slakes, you might need to tape off some of your items that you don't want grouted. On mine, I covered the elephants with tape since I didn't want it to get any grout in the grooves of each. Remember that it is going to be difficult to get the grout out of some of your areas.

Spread your grout on and work into the grout joints. Take your paper towels and clean off the grout. Use the toothpicks and toothbrush to clean off the funky trinkets that you used until it all nice and shiny!

The grouting is difficult and not actually necessary if you can fill the entire surface with no grout joints. I just prefer the look of a grouted piece.

Some frame ideas:

• Try adding Harley Davidson items for your Harley fan then use Obsidian and Mango Passion AfterGlow tiles.
• Create a breast cancer awareness frame with our Carnation tiles and pink ribbons glued on after grouting.
• Make a memory frame for the grandparents with small toys or special items of your kids. Then fill it with a picture our your child.

Project Idea #1 - Coaster Sets

Everyone needs a coaster...or at least that is what I think! Coasters are those small 4" squares or circles that people can place their drinks on so that the table doesn't get all wet. Like I said...everyone needs a coaster. Actually they need a set of 4!

These are some of the easiest and least expensive projects. Get creative and do a set for yourself or let your kids, nieces, nephews, preschool class, etc. make at least one for a holiday gift.

You will need:

4" ceramic tile - any color
100 Q Tiles - color is up to you
Weldbond
Grout
Gloves
Paper towels
Cork feet or cork sheet

You can tile either side. I usually choose the glazed side so that it will be even on top. Use a dab of Weldbond glue on each tile and set in whatever design you choose. Make sure to leave a small space between tiles for the grout and that you place at border of tiles around each edge. The gap should only be about 1/16" wide.

Allow your tiles to set up for 24 hours. Lay down some newspaper to grout your coaster on. Mix the grout to container specifications. Cover your tiles on your coaster and allow to sit for a few minutes. Wipe grout off with paper towels until all grout it removed and the tiles are shiny.

That is basically it. After you allow your grout to cure for at least 24 hours, seal it with a grout sealant. Place 4 cork "feet" on the bottom of the coaster. You now have a beautiful, handmade creation that makes an awesome gift.

These are perfect for kids because there is no cutting involved. The tiny tiles fit perfectly on the ceramic tile.

Thin Set Mortar

Thin set mortar is one of the best adhesives for mosaic art whether it be for a small piece or large structural installation. It is basically cement and is perfect for anything going outdoors.

Don't buy thinset already mixed up from the home improvement stores. It is much more expensive and doesn't hold as well. Just buy it in dry format. If you don't want to buy a 25 pound bag for your first piece, we sell it in 1 1/2 pound containers for you to dabble in.

The best liquid to mix in is a latex or acrylic additive. This can be found at your local hardware store. Once again, if you don't want to buy a gallon jug of the stuff, we sell it in smaller bottles. Use this additive instead of water for mixing. It will make the thin set stickier and it creates an awesome bond with the glass tiles. You will mix it to the consistency of toothpaste (like grout).

Thin set can be used on many surfaces including cement, ceramic, terra cotta, wood, and backerboard. Thin set doesn't hold well on metal or plastic. If you are doing a large piece then I recommend creating your piece on mesh using the double direct method. Then you can just install the entire piece at once after spreading the thinset.

If you mosaic is small then you can either spread a little thinset at a time and lay in the pieces or backbutter each piece as you set it in place. Thinset can be very messy. Keep your area clean as you lay the tiles especially if you are backbuttering. You will get it all over your fingers so keep an old towel nearby.

Once the thinset has set up then it is very difficult to scrape out of the grout joints. Keep a toothpick handy to wipe out the joints as you go. Also, only mix a little thinset at a time if you are laying tiles using the direct method. Once the thin set starts to haze over then it is no good and must be thrown out.

Be sure to use all disposable items when working with thin set so that you can just throw everything away when finished. Don't wash thinset down the drain as it WILL clog your pipes (I know this from experience)!

Once your piece has dried for 24 hours, grout and seal. You can then place it outside and not have to worry about the tiles popping off.

Direct Method of Mosaic

This is the most common way to lay mosaic tiles. Basically you glue each tile directly to your final surface. This is a great technique for a lot of mosaic pieces.

You can use whatever adhesive you have chosen and prep your surface accordingly. To lay your tiles, either lay your glue on the surface and then place your tiles or dab the glue onto the back of each tile and lay the tile on your surface (called backbuttering). Each method works and I actually use both when tiling direct.

The problem arises when you have a cool design that you want to transfer onto a tabletop or other similar surface. Once you draw out your design then you can redraw it onto your table easily using carbon paper. Lay out the carbon paper on the table then lay your design on top. Trace over all of your lines and it will then be reproduced on your table.

Now you have to adhere the tiles to this table. If using thinset, you might have trouble. You will have to be very careful to only spread enough thinset so that you don't cover up your lines. This is where the backbuttering of the tiles is best. If you use Weldbond or some other tube like glue then you can use either method to lay the tiles.

Direct method is best when you don't have a specific design in mind. Random placement of tiles works great in this area.

The AfterGlow Series

As you have noticed we are running a promo for a free mixed bag of AfterGlow tiles. You may be wondering why on Earth we are giving away these tiles.

I fell in love with these little guys when I first received the samples from our factory. The colors are so clear and they cut like a dream. Use the wheeled cutters and you get a very straight cut with little or no shards. These will not cut with the basic nippers.

It wasn't until I grouted my first piece when I really realized how awesome these tiles are. Before grouting the light grabs the color and illuminates it. After grouting there is a border around each tile and that makes the light really play off of the color (kind of refracting is oddly). It just seems to light up the entire tile or the entire piece.

I know you are saying, "of course Tammy is going to say this...she is trying to sell her tiles". Obviously I want to sell these tiles, but as most of you know I am more into helping clients than making money. Every client that comes into my showroom goes nuts over The AfterGlow Series. I always get people coming back for more.

It is one of those items that is very hard to photograph and must be seen in person to appreciate it. So this is why we are giving away a mixed bag with every order over $50. By the way, we extended this promo until Sept. 30. I promise that you won't be disappointed.

The Perfect Grout Color

Picking out the best color of grout for your completed project is extremely important. The wrong color can destroy your piece. Trust me...I have ruined several mosaics due to a bad color choice.

In the tile industry we do have a rule of thumb for grout colors. Gray and brown are always good choices with varying shades depending upon your overall color. If you are using mainly cool colors then choose gray grout, if using warm colors then use brown grout. For an overall light effect, choose a light colored grout and for darker tiles use a dark grout. So if you do your piece in mostly a rich cobalt blue with a hint of light aqua and white thrown, I would recommend a dark gray grout. The cobalt is a cool color and dark tile. If you choose to do your piece in varying shades of reds, oranges, and yellows, then I would recommend a medium tone brown grout. Does this make sense???

Using the neutral grout colors will make it to where people don't see the grout only the flow of the tiles. However, what if you want to make your grout joints stand out? Black and white will do this. Black grout is an amazing choice for those brightly colored tiles. It will give your piece a leaded stained glass feel. White will fracture your entire piece so use it sparingly. I only recommend white grout when most of your tiles are white. It is not as pleasing to the eye.

Grout colorants can give you a ton of options for grout color. Grout colorants are a strong concrete dye that resists fading. A little goes a long way! Just a teaspoon will tint 2 cups of grout to the dark shades. I only add it to white grout. This gives you brighter colors. Some people will add it to gray grout. You will still get the colors but they are more muted. You can also add the colorant to thinset and concrete (like your stepping stones).

Try mixing different colors together too. We mix terra cotta grout with brown colorant. This takes the edge off of the redness of the terra cotta giving you a rich grout color. We will also mix black grout with white grout to achieve gray tones. How about mixing blue and red colorant to get a beautiful purple? Maybe add sandstone colorant to terra cotta grout for a rich goldenrod grout. See the possibilities are endless!

Mosaic Tools - What do you really need? Part 2

So other than cutters, what tools do you need? I can tell you that most of what you need, you will have laying around your house. There is no need to go spend lots of $$$ on these items. Spend your money on tiles instead!

Plastic containers are a must. I mean those that you would usually throw away when the product is gone, like butter and frosting containers. These are great because after you have cleaned them out, you can store your tiles or broken chips in them and mix grout and thin set in these. I never use anything that has to be washed when it comes to grout and thin set. I just throw the entire container away after I am done.

Plastic spoons are another great disposable item. Anytime you get food to go, save that spoon that you never use. After mixing your grout just throw it away with the plastic container. Newspaper is another great disposable item. Use this as your work mat. It will catch all of the shards and spills. Just wad it up and toss it when you get done.

Sponges are great for cleanup on your pieces that have odd items sticking out. Paper towels are a must when dry grouting (which we will talk about next time). Buckets are needed for doing large projects. I have found that those plastic gallon ice cream buckets are perfect for use as a bucket. Invest in a box of latex gloves. You will go through at least 2 pair when grouting.

So what about items that are not disposable. You definately need safety glasses and a dust mask. These are some safety items that will help to prolong your life! You never know where glass is going to go when you cut it. You just don't want it in your eyes. Grout dust is horrible for your lungs. Always wear a dust mask when pouring dry grout so you don't inhale the dust. It will just turn to concrete in your lungs. Not a good thing!

Other tools that I use are an old butter knife, scissors, utility knife, 3/16" notched trowel, and toothpicks. The old butter knife is one of those with the weird pointed end. This is great for digging out thin set or grout that is in a place it doesn't need to be or even back buttering tiles. Scissors are used with cutting fiberglass mesh and patterns. The utility knife is used most often for cutting substrate like hardibacker. I use the notched trowel when I need to lay and trowel through large areas of thin set. If you hold it at a 45 degree angle you will have a perfect thickness of thin set. Toothpicks are used for fine tuning the mosaic. I use them to dig out thinset from grout joints and mostly to reposition tiny tiles that I can't get my fingers on.

As usual, I have probably left out something. Always remember that you can use a lot of things around your home when doing mosaics. Once you use them on your projects, keep them in a small tool box for your next piece.

Tulsa House Beautiful Show

This weekend we will be exhibiting at the Tulsa House Beautiful Show featuring Andrew Dan Jumbo from While You Were Out. This is our first home show and are not really sure what to expect. We have been working hard on new displays that will feature our MatrixColor and AfterGlow Series. We have tons of eye candy for all to see.

If you are in the Tulsa area this weekend stop by to see us. We will be at booth number 256. It is one of the more colorful booths out there. We have examples of how to use our glass tile in your home installations such as showers and backsplashes but also have some artistic pieces. I am hoping to show everyone how mosaic tile can be used throughout the home. Some people are scared of the small tiles and glass shards!

We look forward to meeting all that can come by. While you are at our booth make sure to pick up some free samples and tons of literature that we have available.

Hours:
Friday 2 to 9
Saturday 10 to 9
Sunday 11 to 6

Mosaic Tools - What do you really need? Part 1

This is a tough topic in the mosaic world. Everyone uses different tools for different reasons. As my motto states, find what works for you and stick with it.

The very first tool that you will need is a cutter of some sort. There are wheeled cutters, basic nippers, hammer, and tile saws. All of these work well with different types of tesserae. The wheeled cutters are, by far, the best tool for working with glass. They cut pretty precise with some practice. Here is a tutorial on how to use the wheeled cutters. See my blog below called Getting A Straight Cut With Glass Tile.

There are several brands out there to choose from. I have tried most of them and have found that they are really all the same. The only big difference is if the wheels are stationary or if they wobble freely. The stationary wheels are the best. The wobbly wheels give you wobbly cuts. If you happen to have a set of these cutters, simply place a washer beneath the wheels. This will give the wheels a tighter fit.

Other than the color of the handles they all work the same and have the same type of wheels. When your cutters don't seem to be working as well loosen the bolt and turn your wheel slightly. This gives you a brand new cutting surface.

There is another type of wheeled cutters called Starretts. They have a different handle set up. I haven't used them myself but have recommended them to my clients with severe arthritis. They are supposed to make cutting tiles so much easier on your hands.

Then there are the basic nippers. These are good for cutting ceramic, marble, and porcelain. They are much harder to use though. Don't use the entire cutting surface as this will shatter your piece. Place your tile on the front corner or back corner of the cutting teeth to get a cut. The nippers are not meant to "cut" the tile, but to direct the breaking of the tile. So place your teeth in the direction you want the break and then squeeze. These take some practice as well. Once again, these are all pretty much the same, just different handle colors. However, I have seen a pair at Lowe's that have a nice ratchet system that will make breaking so much easier.

A hammer is an awesome tool to have laying around. When you have a huge plate, bowl, or ceramic tile, you can use the hammer to break it down to a workable size. Be sure to place a towel over the top of the item first. You don't want your glaze to pop off with the break.

A tile saw is really only necessary when working with large ceramic tiles and marble. You can get some great cuts with it. It is very good for cutting your marble into strips so they can then be nipped into small tesserae. Keep in mind that a wet saw is very messy!

So that is all of the basic cutters. I am sure there are others that I have left out. Feel free to let me know what I have forgotten.

Cutters are the most important tool but what else do you need? A sponge if you wet grout, paper towels if you dry grout, buckets for grout water, plastic containers for mixing thinset and grout, plastic spoons for stirring, utility knife for cutting surfaces, notched trowel for spreading thinset, gloves, safety glasses, fiberglass mesh, etc. etc. etc. There are lots of tools needed for different projects. Research before getting started to make sure you have it all ready to work with. We will go into more detail in our next blog.

Vitreous Glass 101

Vitreous glass tile is one of the most popular forms of tesserae used in mosaic art. I personally love it because of its uniform size and shape. These are perfect for use on a tabletop and floor since they are all the same thickness. I don't recommend always using them whole. Try cutting some up to give a rough edge look to your piece. I cut these into strips or quarters or even triangles. Mix it up a little to add texture to your piece.

So what is vitreous glass tile? The definition of vitreous is basically that light can pass through but you can't see through it. Keep in mind that this is just an overall definition. Some vitreous tiles are completely opaque. This is usually true for the hot colors such as reds, oranges, and yellows. There are several new brands coming out that have completely solid colors in the blues, greens, grays, etc.

Most vitreous glass has a speckled surface which people love. It gives the tile a natural look that is appealing for most projects. I have found that most of my clients prefer this surface texture for their home installations over completely smooth tile. However, too much speckle is not always a good thing. A good rule of thumb is that the more speckles there are the lower quality the tile. I have seen some tiles that are completely spotted and they just shatter when I cut them. That is very frustrating! Then there are the completely smooth tiles. These tiles are gorgeous but some of these cut weird too. Sometimes they will separate in layers when cut. Always go back to the rule that glass has fracture points and will split where it wants occasionally.

Price doesn't mean good or bad quality. You will find which tiles you prefer and just stick with those. I love the MatrixColor and the Sq Palette. These are my personal favorite. I create all of my work in these two lines. However I do throw in a CartGlass vitreous tile occasionally to get the colors that I need. I have tried other lines of vitreous and have likes and dislikes of those as well. I won't go into those here though.

Vitreous glass tile comes in hundreds of colors. The palette it gives you is extensive and will help you create the perfect piece. Always be willing to try something new!

Getting A Straight Cut With Glass Tile

This can be very frustrating for some people. You need a precise cut on your glass tile and you just can't seem to get what you want. There are ways to cut glass tile to almost perfection. However, you must remember that glass is glass and it tends to have a mind of its own sometimes. If you get a piece that will not cut well, then put it aside and try a new one. Glass has fracture points and it will break along its own line occasionally. You just have to direct the cut.

I use wheeled cutters to cut all glass. Click here to see the basics of how to use wheeled cutters. Some people use the basic nippers but I have too many problems with them. To cut all the way across the glass tile in a straight line you need to cut quickly and efficiently. If you take too long to squeeze the cutters for a cut then you will end up crushing the tile. This crushed area will result in a poor cut that is curved. You can't give the glass time to find its fracture point. Place your wheels where you want the cut and pop the tile apart with speed. Don't let your cutters wobble either.

You still may have a ragged edge. This is normal and usually a desired effect. Most artists don't want a "perfect" edge. They want it to all look hand cut. To clean up a ragged edge just slowly start nipping the the rough area off. You can also use grozier pliers to pull of the unwanted part.

Practice really does make perfect on this. The more cuts you make on glass tile the better you will get. Remember that it will take a lot to dull your wheels. If they seem to be getting dull just rotate them slightly.

If you have your own technique that works, feel free to add a comment on it.

Weldbond - The Good and The Bad

Ooohhh Weldbond! As a mosaic artist I love this magical glue. It is very easy to use, dries clear (eventually), and gets stronger as it dries. I tell my students that a "dab will do it" when using Weldbond so it is also inexpensive to use.

Weldbond can be used for most indoor projects. I don't recommend using it for hanging a kitchen backsplash or shower surround! You can use this wonderful adhesive on most surfaces. Try it on wood, metal, ceramic, and glass.

This adhesive is perfect for a sealant to be used before tiling your piece. Create a mixture of 1/5 of Weldbond and 4/5 of water. Brush on the entire surface of wood, concrete, and terra cotta. Allow to soak in and dry. This will help protect against added moisture that may seep onto the surface of your piece and damage the integrity of your mosaic.

I use Weldbond for the double direct on mesh method. I use it very sparingly to adhere my tiles to the mesh. Just don't use too much so that it completely covers your mesh holes. You need to leave some space for the thinset to seep up and touch your tiles.

The drawbacks are that it is a water soluble and doesn't set quickly. Do not use this adhesive outdoors!!!! I created a gorgeous bench using Weldbond. I then placed it outside under my covered back porch. Within 2 months the tiles began to just come off in sheets, held together only by grout. Don't allow your mosaic to be destroyed due to ignorance of your glue like I did!

If you decide to use this glue on glass be ready for your tesserae to slide for a little while. Weldbond doesn't set up quickly so your tiles will move easily until the glue has time to dry somewhat. One thing that helps this is to brush on a coating of Weldbond on your glass and allow to dry. Now use the Weldbond to adhere the tile as you normally would.

Keep in mind that Weldbond needs oxygen to set up. Once the tiles are squished onto the surface, it is harder for air to get underneath the tiles. It will take a little longer for the glue to become clear but it will eventually. If using transparent tiles, be sure to cover the entire back of the tile with glue (thin layer) so you will not see the glue once it does completely dry.

That is all for today. I hope this helps you understand the power of Weldbond. Please let me know if I have left anything out by leaving me a comment! Here is a link to purchase Weldbond.

Introduction

My name is Tammy and I am the owner of Tile Shack Mosaic Supplies (www.tileshack.com). I have been in business for almost 5 years. During this 5 years I have taught many people how to create gorgeous mosaic art.

I have been creating my own mosaics for about 9 years. I have written a couple of articles for GlassCraftsman magazine. I have been in several newspaper articles. I was even asked to create a commission piece for the Maxwell House Hotel in Nashville, TN. It was the sheet music to Hey Good Lookin'.

Over this time period, I have picked up tons of techniques and tips. Some of these work well for one person but may not work for someone else. You always have to be prepared to try something different until you find what works for you.

For instance, a good friend of mine, Cary Huff, creates the most amazing vases. She uses stained glass, vitreous tiles, broken china, glass gems, and other assorted things. She also loves using Liquid Nails for her adhesive. I don't care for making vases or using Liquid Nails. I prefer nice flat surfaces such as wall hangings or table tops. I hate using Liquid Nails as I can never get it to work properly without making a huge mess.

Just learn to adapt when something is not working and always be willing to try a variety of techniques. Creating mosaic art is not rocket science but does take some time and thought.

That is it for now. I will return every few days and post a great tip or technique that you will hopefully try. Feel free to post a response if you disagree or agree with what I am saying. I am, by far, not an expert just have a ton of experience!